Archive for the ‘Hanoi Scene’ Category

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The Move

November 10, 2009

This past weekend the English center where I work, Oxford English UK Vietnam, moved. We moved from 49 Thai Ha Street to #6 Lane 28, Nguyen Hong Street. If people ask me where that is, I tell them it’s near Kentucky Fried Chicken on Huynh Thuc Khang Street, about 2 minutes from 49 Thai Ha. Same teachers, same Immersion English program, but a new building. I’ve moved a lot in my life, and moving is always crazy – hard work, things break, other things get lost, and muscles you’ve been ignoring for a long time get a painful workout.

I’ve been involved in major business moves twice, and I’ve moved my home … wow … more times than I can count. The biggest move, of course, was from New York to Hanoi, but in that move I left almost everything behind – I just packed one big suitcase, since at that time I hadn’t known I wouldn’t be coming back. I still miss a lot of stuff I left behind in New York, especially my books. I had a huge library of books back in New York, and I miss them. The rest of my stuff – desks, and beds, and chairs, and TVs, – was nothing special. For me, the new place is always more interesting than the old place, and I don’t experience much nostalgia for places I once lived and worked.

Moving, I guess, is a little like giving birth. You slowly watch the empty space you’re soon to be occupying transform as the furniture and the pictures and the computers, and finally the people, all start showing up.

People will ask me why we decided to move the school, and they may even suspect that the move was attached to some kind of hardship for me and worry about me. It’s not necessary; the move was entirely my idea, and not attached to any hardship worse than noise. Yep. Noise. We moved the center because of noise, more than for any other reason.

Many people will likely suspect that part of the reason for the move was the expense of maintaining such a large building on a street that’s as popular as Thai Ha and, of course, that was part of it. The rental rates on Thai Ha Street were quite high, and the building could support 12 classrooms (five of which might be unusable, for reasons I’ll get to in a moment). 12 classrooms means you need 12 full-time teachers (or an army of part-time teachers), and finding 12 highly qualified full-time Americans and Brits, especially those who intend to stay in Hanoi for a long time, is a very difficult challenge. One contributing factor to my decision was the expense then, another the staffing issues, and the third, and main reason … the classrooms I mentioned that might be unusable.

Why unusable? Well, first of all it’s true that Thai Ha Street has man problems – the traffic is horrible, it floods in heavy rains, the power goes out often (especially in the summer), and the traffic also generates quite a bit of noise. In fact, though, none of those things really bothered me. They all seemed a part of life in Hanoi. Especially the floods; I loved the floods. Standing on the first floor, watching the water level rise, wondering how all the students would ever escape – that was good, Thai Ha fun! I’ll never forget one occasion when the street flooded to waist height and none of the Dylans and SHs and other big, expensive, automatic scooters could move. I had to drive a student home through waist-deep water on my unstoppable, amphibious, Future Neo. It was like a scene out of a movie, trying to keep the bike upright as water washed over my legs, wondering when the engine would cut out, and having no idea what kinds of holes or bumps or other deadly objects might be in front of me under all of that dark water. It’s a memory I’ll never forget, but we didn’t move because of the floods or the traffic. We moved because of a different kind of noise.

There are now five different shops adjacent to or facing Oxford English UK’s old building on Thai Ha Street that have placed large speakers out front on the street, and those speakers blast music out into the street … and into our center. The noise was especially bad in my office, which was on the second floor and faced the street. For the first five years I worked for the center, those speakers (and those shops, for the most part) weren’t there. Perhaps their appearance represents progress, but it’s definitely the downside of progress. Now, the noise there can start at any time, and when it does start, it hammers any education-oriented thoughts right out of my brain.

Of course, I reached out to the managers of all of those shops, told them our study and working schedule, asked them to recognize that they had a neighbor – with seniority on the street – whose business was teaching and thus depended on peace and quiet for success. They didn’t care. They believed, rightly or wrongly – it’s not for me to say – that the best way to sell the most laptops and mobile phones was to blast music into the street, so that passing motorbike drivers would turn their heads to see where all the noise was coming from, and notice their shops. They didn’t care that their music might disturb anyone nearby who might be trying to read a book, listen to a CD, or try to learn how to pronounce the word “thistle.”

Thus, the classroom on each floor that faced the street in the Thai Ha building was rendered unusable by the noise. And I found that instead of writing lessons or reading new textbooks and journal articles, I was spending all my time trying to figure out the rhyme and reason behind the noise. At what time would the music start? How loud would it last today? How many shops would play their music at the same time? Who chose the songs they were playing, and why on Earth did they choose such terrible music? Why did they think their actual customers, the ones would actually walk through their front doors, needed to be subjected to a virtual wall of noise before being able to do any shopping? And what about the little old ladies and the newborn babies in the houses nearby? What did they think of “Baby Hit Me One More Time” thundering through their windows? I even considered putting on a ninja-suit and running around cutting the wires to all those speakers and trying to escape before the security guards could catch me. Needless to say, that would not have been an action becoming an English teacher.

I actually set up a fan, pointed at my window, that I would leave on the highest power setting, because I found the droning of the fan blocked some of the noise coming through my window. Of course, visitors often thought I was crazy. I wonder how many of my students thought to themselves, “Stupid American. He doesn’t know a fan should point INTO the room.”

As the time to sign the new rental contract for the building drew nearer (the old contract ended on 31 October), I just couldn’t find the strength to sign a document that would subject me to at least five more years of sonic torture, in an expensive building, where three of the classrooms were impossible to use due to noise. And so, in the end, and rather late given how long such things take to arrange and accomplish, I decided to move.

It may not be the wisest business decision I’ve ever made. After all, Thai Ha Street is a major thoroughfare and Lane 28 of Nguyen Hong Street is a tiny, quiet, little-traveled lane that’s much harder to find. But … it seems to be easier to get to, and less likely to turn into a lake when it rains. And, most importantly, it seems quieter.

We’re doing our best to make the new school better than the old school, with classrooms that are more comfortable, a bigger cafe, and a nicer environment for immersing yourself in English. We’re going to be supporting the Vietnam Environmental Protection fund, contributing to the fight against global warming through charitable contributions, recycling, etc. I think it’s going to be a great place to work and hang out, and since I spend pretty much all of my time at the school that’s a good thing for me, too. Last week, I saw a toad hopping along the street. There are no toads on Thai Ha Street. They all moved away, because of the noise.

In the end, I guess I believe that we will be more successful at the business of teaching English in the new location than we ever were in the old. Only time will tell if I’m right. Still, I think that it’s the teachers and the education program that make a school, far more than its location.

If you happen to live near Nguyen Hong Street, don’t worry. You’ll never wake up at 8 a.m. in the morning, or have your dinner interrupted, by huge speakers blasting the announcement, “Oxford English UK’s Immersion English training is now located at #6 Lane 28, Nguyen Hong Street!” followed by endless repetitions of the earth-shatteringly bad song, “I’m so lucky, lucky, lucky.” I would never do that to you.

I’m sure that there will be times when I miss the old school on Thai Ha Street, especially when a young student unaware of all the factors I discussed here looks up at me and says, “Why did you move? Thai Ha Street is a big, famous street.” Change is never without some pain, but change is also a big part of life. And if my life experience is any proof, then it seems that change is always for the better.

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A Conversation in Hanoi

July 9, 2009

July 8, 2009

9 a.m.

 

“Hi, I’m sorry, the WIFI doesn’t seem to be working today.”

            “It’s not?  Really?”

            “Yeah, I can’t get online.  Can you check it for me?  Turn off the modem and turn it back on, maybe.”

            “Yes, sure, OK.”

 

July 8, 2009

9:10 a.m.

 

            “Excuse me, hi, yeah, it’s still not working.”

            “Really?  I turned it off and on.”

            “Hmm. Well, it’s still not working.  Maybe you can call someone.”

            “Yes, we called already.  They are fixing it.”

            “Uh … oh.  I see.  Ahem.  When will it be fixed.”

            “Yes, please forgive me.  It will be fixed tomorrow.”

            “Are you sure?”

            “Yes, I’m sure.”

            “OK, because I have to work online in the mornings, so I really need the WIFI.”

            “Yes, you come back tomorrow.  It will be fixed.”

            “For sure?”

            “Yes, for sure.”

 

July 9, 2009

9:00 a.m.

 

            “Hi.  Excuse me.  Yeah, hi.  You told me the WIFI would be fixed today, but it’s still not working.”

            “Really?”

            “Yes.  I can’t connect.”

            “OK, I will call someone to fix it.”

            “Yesterday, you told me they were fixing it, and that today it would be OK.”

            “Yeah, I also think today it will be OK.”

            “But it’s not.”

            “OK, I’ll call someone to fix it.”

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A day on the road

July 4, 2009

t was a cold night, but the sky was clear (or at least as clear as it ever gets in Hanoi), and the streets were empty. It was about 11 p.m., and I was coming home from a game of pool. I’d played badly, which is normal for me, but I was still feeling cheerful. Rolling down Thai Ha Street, I came to the light at the Lang Ha intersection. It was red, so of course, I stopped. A motorbike raced past me on the right. A near miss. I took a deep breath, but then another raced past me on the left. Then two more on the right. I waited patiently, hoping none of these people would crash into me. The light turned green, and I drove into the intersection. To my left, someone raced through the red light on Lang Ha Street and zoomed by in front of me. A near miss. I continued down Huynh Thuc Khang. Close to home now, I felt safe. I put on my turn signal and moved to the left of my lane. A big SUV came racing up behind me. HONK. HONK. HONK HONK HONK. Didn’t he see my turn signal? Didn’t he realize he could go around on me on my right? There was no other traffic – our whole lane was empty to my right. HONK. HONK. Almost to my alley. HONK! HONK! Good thing sound waves couldn’t knock me off my bike. HONK! Ah, at last. My alley. I turned left slowly, trying to look past the SUV, but it was half in my lane and half in the other lane, blocking my view of anything behind me. I turned. Someone who didn’t like using the correct lane came racing past the SUV, driving against the flow of traffic in the opposite lane and at the speed of light, and he had to swerve his motorbike to zoom past me. He was going at least 60 kph and missed me by inches.

Wobbly now, I rolled into my alley.

11 p.m. Almost no cars or motorbikes on the road. A minimum of three brushes with death. I hope all those people who were breaking just about every traffic law known to man got where they were going. I hope they even got where they were going 1 or 2 minutes early. After all, if those people got home 1 or 2 minutes early, it’s almost worth my dying. Right?

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Helmet Horror

July 4, 2009

As everyone knows, I’m in that group of people who was very unhappy when the law was passed requiring everyone to wear a motorbike helmet. Of course, I’m following the law. Everyone in the area of the English center I work for at 49 Thai Ha Street is wearing one, and all my students have helmets when they come to class. Helmets everywhere. In fact, I was amazed that everyone complied with the law so readily. I mean, many Vietnamese only stop at red lights if there is a policeman around, so I figured it would be the same with helmets. But, no, everyone is wearing them. Or so I thought.

Last night I went to dinner with some friends who were in Hanoi for only one day from America. Two of my Vietnamese friends came along, and one of them was late for dinner. Apparently, Linh decided that since her motorbike needed some petrol, she’d scoot off and buy some while we all stood around waiting for her. Anyway. We love Linh, so we didn’t mind waiting. Imagine my horror while we stood on Ly Thai To Street waiting for Linh and watching the traffic go by. In that neighborhood, that more sanh dieu neighborhood that is so much more popular with young people, at least 30% of the people I saw drive down Ly Thai To Street weren’t wearing helmets!!!! Had I discovered the secret base of the rebel alliance?

I was really shocked. I watched in shocked amazement as a young boy and his girlfriend rolled past two brown-uniformed traffic police on their motorbike. The policeman tried to stop them, but the skillful boy just spun his motorbike around – almost hurling his girlfriend off, but not quite – and sped off into the night – racing the wrong way down Ly Thai To. The beleaguered policemen didn’t even bother trying to give chase.

Hmph. What did this mean, I wondered. Could I too be a rebel and stop wearing my helmet? The answer, of course, is no. I’m older, and I’m a teacher, so I have to be a good role-model. I will wear my helmet, even if god blesses me with the chance to someday ride around Hoan Kiem Lake with a beautiful girl. My helmet and I will be together until Vietnam rescinds this law. Which will probably never happen.

I guess it’s the job of older people to be secretly, or thanks to Yahoo 360 not so secretly, jealous of young people. So if you see me frowning under my helmet, you’ll know why. It’s because so many people hanging out around Hoan Kiem Lake aren’t wearing one!

On a related note, in the past week, I narrowly avoided about four different traffic accidents, all nearly caused by my desire to stop at red lights, while some fun-loving people nearby wanted to speed through them. Is that the future? Lonely little me, the only one with a helmet, sitting at a red light while all these people without helmets speed on by?

What should the penalty be for someone who gets caught by the police for not wearing a helmet? I think it should be a mandatory surgical procedure in which the helmet is permanently attached to their head forever. That seems fair to me. Could be annoying to sit behind them in the movie theater though. Of course, what does it matter? In the movie theater they’re probably talking on their mobile phones!

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End of An Era

July 3, 2009

End of an Era

Toi nho luc toi moi sang Viet Nam, luc do Lauren chua sang toi da dat mot khach san o pho co. Toi đa co mot hom mot minh o Ha Noi, va toi ko biet gi ve Ha Noi ca Viet Nam nua tru nhung dieu toi doc trong quyen sach du lich: Lonely Planet. Lauren da hua voi toi se gioi thieu toi voi tat ca ve Ha noi, vi luc do Lauren da song o Viet Nam bon mua he roi, va co the noi duoc tieng viet. Nhung Lauren cung khuyen toi khong di ngu luon khi den khach san, vi neu ngu luon se say may bay lau hon,nen toi quyet dinh di ra khach san de xem Ha Noi co gi, va nhu the nao.

Troi dat. Toi ko di bo tu khach san de Bo Ho duoc. Duong dong lam, tat ca moi nguoi deu di xe may, nhieu duong ko co den do, va nhung duong co den do nguoi Viet Nam ko dung lai. Hinh nhu dat den do o mot so vai duong chi de lam dep, chu ko fai de quan ly xe may.

Toi den duoc pho Hang Bong, nong nhu lua, met nhu mot linh dang di chien dau, va mo hoi nhu vua moi di boi xong. Ko di tiep duoc nua. Nhieu xe may qua. Con toi nghi rang nguoi Viet Nam bi dien mat, vi ko ai doi mu bao hiem ca.

Toi dung o do, va chi ngam nguoi Viet Nam khi ma ho di qua. Theo toi, nguoi Viet Nam trong giong vua la cowboy, vua la hiep si, vua la ninja. Co nhung con gai deo khau trang, deu kinh ram, va co toc den nhu bong toi va dai nhu tay cua toi.

Xinh nhi.

Toi dung o do xem va bat dau cam giac la toi ghen. Toi cung muon di ma! Toi duoc xem mot anh deo mot co sanh dieu den muc va xinh dep nhu cong chua, ngoi cao o tren mot Dylan. Va toi duoc xem nhieu doi, nhieu anh chi yeu nhau, di o duong va om nhau chat, va toi da biet luon Ha Noi la mot thanh pho rat tinh cam.

Tu luc do den bay h, tat ca con gai xinh dep nhat, an mac dep nhat, trang diem dep nhat ma toi da xem trong mot cuoc doi dai 39 nam roi, toi duoc xem ngoi tren xe may o duong Ha Noi.

Luc toi va ban gai cu chia tay, toi len y kien nen cho cac visit cua toi o trong tui ao, de luc mot co rat xinh dep di qua bang xe may, gap toi o mot den do, thi toi se dua cac luon. “Hello. Need an English teacher?” Cung kha vo duyen, cho nen toi ko lam nhu vay, ma y kien do da tung co …

Den hom nay, thuc day o mot thanh pho khac roi. Co the la mot hang tinh khac, vi bay gio cac hiep si Viet Nam deu doi mu bao hiem. Ngay xua chi co toc den phan chieu anh sang o ngoai duong Ha Noi, con bay h co nhieu mu bao hiem, nhieu mau khac nhau, phan chieu anh sang mat troi va cung che đi luon khuon mat cua nguoi di duong. Nhu luc toi tham Thailand, va duoc xem ai di xe may cung doi mu bao hiem, va nghi rang, “Chan lam. Lam sao so sanh voi Ha Noi duoc.”

Lau lam roi, toi cam giac la dieu hay nhat o Ha Noi la mot buoi toi o cac duong xung quanh Bo Ho, trong luc cac thanh nien Viet Nam di xe may cung nguoi yeu cua minh, chi de om nhau, de di dao pho, de di choi thoai mai. Neu fai doi mu bao hiem, cac em kia van di ko? Toi chua chac.

Cac luat minh theo nha nuoc dua ra de bao ve minh. Nhung o My, minh co the cam giac minh dang song mot cuoc song chan oi la chan, vi hay cam thay minh chang duoc lam nhung dieu minh that su muon lam.

Neu mot dat nuoc muon bao ve toi, thi ho ko can bat toi doi mu bao hiem. Tot hon nhieu neu ho cam moi nguoi ban va hut thuoc la. Theo toi, thuoc la se giet toi som hon va chac chan hon bi tai nan. Vi sao ko cam thuoc la? Boi vi, vi thuoc la nhieu nguoi duoc di lam o nha may, ban hang, nhap khau, va nhu vay kiem tien cho ho va cho nha nuoc. Lam sao cam thuoc la duoc, mac du nhu vay se cuu nhieu nguoi ca mot thay giao ko quan trong va binh thuong nhu toi. Cho nen vi sao bat buoc moi nguoi doi mu bao hiem? Vi nhu vay cac nha may, cac cong ty mu bao hiem, va nhung nguoi ban hang mu bao hiem cung kiem duoc nhieu tien.

Dieu toi so nhat la cam giac cua toi khi toi doi mu bao hiem va di xe may. Toi thay kha kho de xoay dau tu trai den phai, phai den trai, tren va xuong, cho nen toi chi nhin thang thoi. Con toi cung cam giac kho hon chet, cho nen co the ko di can than nhu truoc kia. Hi hi. Neu co hang trieu hiep si Viet Nam cung nghi rang kho hon de nhin thay duong va ho cung khong the bi thuong duoc vi co mu bao hiem … cho nen co the benh vien se dong nguoi vao hon moi nguoi tuong tuong.

Roi. Nha nuoc quyet dinh gi, toi fai theo quyet dinh do. Co the mu bao hiem se cuu nhieu nguoi Viet Nam bi tai nan, va do la mot dieu rat la tot.

Cuoi cung, sang nay toi thuc day, doi mu bao hiem va di ra ngoai. Ko fai chi mu bao hiem nhe, toi cung mac quan ao, dung lo.

Hom nay la lan dau tien toi di tu nha den Al Frescos o Lang Ha bang xe may cua toi va toi ko bi tinh yeu set danh mot lan nao ca. Chan lam.

Nhung … luc toi vao Al Frescos toi van doi mu bao hiem, va toi nhin thay minh trong cai guong treo o tuong. Mu bao hiem cua toi mau den, to oi la to, co mot kinh chan gio, va dat tien.

Toi nhin thay minh trong guong va toi phat hien: Ko xem mat cua minh duoc va nhu the … dep trai hon roi.

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Stuff I love (About Hanoi)

July 3, 2009

Stuff I Love (about Hanoi)

Hmm, after my last blog entry, everyone seems to have the impression I’m homesick. I’m really not. While it’s true I miss eating lots of fattening and delicious gummy bears and donuts, the fact is I love a lot of things about my adopted city – Hanoi – and that’s why I don’t feel any pressure to go home, even for a visit.

I love my motorbike, a black and grey future Neo that I think suits me perfectly and drives like a dream. It’s got about 1,500 kms on it already, and still drives its brand new. I prefer driving my motorbike to driving a car, and nowadays I even get “say xe” like many Vietnamese if I do go for a drive in a car.
I love driving my motorbike up and down the streets of Hanoi, and especially in the Hoan Kiem Lake area, around Sword Lake and Trang Tien and Nha Tho. I love watching other people on their motorbikes, and all the amazing things I’ve seen on the backs of motorbikes, from hundreds of goldfish in plastic bags, to families of five driving on one motorbike, to one young Vietnamese guy driving three or four beautiful, “sanh dieu” young girls to who-knows-where, to men carrying three or four giant flat screen TVs in oversize crates. I love stopping at red lights and watching everybody else drive past me like they were color-blind. I love sitting at a red light with the other people who “did” stop, and I love it when a beautiful woman smiles at me, or two nice young guys on the bike next to me start whispering to each other in Vietnamese, “Hey, I think I’ve seen this westerner before. Why does he look so familiar?”
I love the food in Hanoi, especially pho bo, which I can eat for breakfast, lunch, dinner, and again if I feel like I want to go out and “an dem.” I love eating pizza at Luna on Dien Bien Phu, sushi at Asashi on Ba Trieu Street, steak sandwiches from the little shop that stays open late on Dinh Liet Street, huge meals with friends and students at Com Pho on Le Van Huu Street, and having a coffee in Highlands Coffee in Vincom Tower and watching the shoppers go by.
I love all the cafes in Hanoi, especially the ones with wifi so I can use my laptop, and I love trying the different kinds of coffee they sell around town, because I’m completely addicted to Vietnamese coffee. My favorites are Cafe Dang on Huynh Thuc Khang, Amigo on Ly Thuong Kiet, and New Window on Nguyen Chi Thanh.
I love going to the DVD shops and sifting through hundreds of films and coming home and watching them, and I love it when the Vietnamese subtitles don’t match the story or the dialogue at all, and I wonder who wrote those crazy subtitles and what they were thinking???
I love going to the Megastar Cinema in Vincom Tower and watching (fairly) new films with my friends or students, and stuffing my face with popcorn and sitting in a theather that’s as air conditioned and comfortable as any back home.
I love that in Hanoi, unlike New York, nobody bothers you and nobody cares what you wear or what you do. I love that the Vietnamese live and let live, and that I can go anywhere and do anything without having to worry about getting into a fight, or into an argument, or getting mugged. I love that everyone is friendly and always seems genuinely happy to meet me, and really happy to speak Vietnamese with me. I love that the city is peaceful. Even if this “live and let live” attitude means that people can use their mobile phones in the movie theater – which is a crime I think they shoot you for in New York.
I love that students respect and care about their teachers in Hanoi, because that’s the way it should be, and it makes teaching a dream job.
I love the way the Vietnamese people get into elevators, just pushing and shoving, and everyone thinking they should go first, but no one getting angry.
I love going to the book stores on Trang Tien Street, and checking out the small supply of new novels that they have nowadays, and I love sifting through hundreds of books about teaching English so I can find useful and fun activities for my students.
I love my new hobby, which is playing pool with some of the teachers at OE, or with my friend Dung who is teaching me how to be a better player. I’m still really terrible, and playing pool isn’t exactly exercise, but it is fun. And I’m going to get better at it. Maybe someday I can retire from teaching and become a professional pool player. That would be kind of cool. May take a while though. Right now I never win.
I love learning about Vietnamese culture, and learning the Vietnamese language, and trying to figure out the mysteries of life in Asia. I love picking up new tidbits of slang, and cracking up my friends when I can spit out a slang expression at the right time.
I love it when the Vietnamese are so honest with me, when they say things like, “Hey, I saw you on TV. On TV you’re very handsome, but in real life you look quite fat and tired.”
I love my students, who make me feel like my work is important, my life is worthwhile, and like there are a lot of people who care about me.
Most of all, I love that every day I still find new things in Hanoi to amaze me, so that the last four years have really been like one long adventure filled vacation.
So nobody needs to worry about me. I’m not homesick. I’m content right where I am.

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Hot

July 3, 2009

Yesterday was hot. Really, really, hot. I think part of my brain melted. I’m not even sure where I went or what I did. Lemme think:
I got a haircut. I used to go to these expensive salons, but I decided yesterday to just go to this little shop across the street from Oxford for my haircut, and I think the woman there did a pretty good job. I pretended I didn’t speak Vietnamese, because it was so hot I didn’t want to have to answer the usual questions, so the whole shampoo, haircut, and massage was handled in sign language. The shampoo was a good one, too, with a nice scalp massage. Then the shampoo girl did this weird thing where she poured water into my ears. It was like an eardrum massage or something. I suppose it felt kinda good, but I didn’t really enjoy it because I was afraid it was going to make go deaf. In the end, I paid 100,000 VND. Yeah, I know, that’s some crazy expensive haircut, right? Well, the last haircut I got was only 20,000 VND, and it was terrible. And in the past, my haircuts used to always between 150 and 250,000 VND, so I think a decent haircut for 100,000 is a good deal. Besides, it was too hot to get into an argument I imagine would have been like this:
“100,000 anh a.”
“The a? Dat the!”
“Gia dung ma.”
“Dung cai gi ma dung? Ko duoc chi a. Qua dat.”
“Ko dat dau. Anh xau trai lam. Lam sao lam cho anh dep trai len neu anh se chi tra tien 20,000 thoi?”
“Xau trai a? Con chi? Chi la nguoi mau a?
“That nhien. Day la Ha Noi day. Phu nu nao cung la nguoi mau.”
Potay … a big waste of time that kind of argument, and in the sweltering heat of yesterday, I had no time for it. So I just paid.
What else did I do?
I taught the second lesson of my new intermediate class. The summer is always busy at all of the English language centres, and the one I work for is no exception. New classes are starting fast and furious, and yesterday I finished the second lesson with my new intermediate class. This class is sort of the same class as the pre-intermediate class I always used to complain about (the one with all the students who never turned off their mobile phones), but I think there are actually more new students than old students. I think this class is going to be a lot of fun, because there are a few students who seem to really have knack for English, and the whole group seems to be getting along really well. One of the students even told me I was funny and cute. As everyone who knows me well knows well, I’m a sucker for compliments and a ready victim of insults. If someone says, “Hey, Craig, you look really fat and old today,” then I feel miserable for about a week. On the other hand, “funny and cute” should be enough to keep me happy for the rest of May, at least.
What else did I do yesterday? A lot of sweating and standing around thinking “Gee, it’s hot,” and walking up to people saying, “Hot, isn’t it?”
Commenting on the weather was a big part of my day yesterday.
Today doesn’t seem so hot, so maybe I’ll get some work done. On nice days like today, when I’m feeling “cute and funny” I always have the same idea: Today I will invent the ultimate super-amazing perfect most wonderful way to teach English to Vietnamese students.
So wish me luck.

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Rainy Sunday

July 3, 2009

Just a quiet rainy Sunday. Kind of perfect, in its way. I’m in I-Box Cafe now, but I think I’m gonna head out. The rain seems to have let up, and I’m in the mood for a drive. I may go see The Fountain tonight. The coming attractions made it look really good. I worked all morning, but I’m about done with working now. I could use a few hours to relax.
Sundays are definitely my favorite.

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My New Hat

July 3, 2009

I almost got a new hat.
Two days ago I was stopped at a light at Nguyen Luong Bang. I had a lot on my mind, so I wasn’t paying attention to much going on around me. Two pretty girls were sitting on a motorbike next to me, but I barely noticed. I did get the feeling they were looking at me though, so I glanced over at them. They weren’t looking at me per se, they were looking down at the rear tire of my motorbike. Since a flat tire is one of the most inconvenient and annoying things that can happen here in Hanoi, I immediately felt a feeling of dread. I turned my shoulders so I could get a look at my back tire.
And there was a Vietnamese man, squatting in the street, with a screwdriver in his hand, busily working the Vespa-labeled metal cap off the side of my bike’s exhaust pipe. He had a white hat on his head, and looked very small. I looked around. There were hundreds of people everywhere, but no one was saying or doing anything.
My hand flashed out as I did my best to grab this man’s head, or hair, or whatever, but all I managed to do was take his hat. He ran away immediately, very quickly. There I was, with some strange man’s white hat in my hand. I glanced down to see that I had caught the man before he could finish his evil task. My bike was still intact.
A man on a motorbike next to me shook his head and said, “He not good.”
I checked my wallet and mobile phone to make sure I still had those, and I answered in Veitnamese, “Getting a new hat is the best thing that happened to me this week.”
The hat didn’t seem like my style, so I threw it in a nearby puddle of water as I drove off.
This was an important lesson. Talented and quiet thieves can actually steal parts of your motorbike while you are sitting on it at a red light. Amazing. The larger lesson is that anyone could be stealing anything from you, right beneath your nose, and you might not realize until it’s too late, and something you treasured is suddenly gone forever.

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Tet

July 3, 2009

Tet

Well, I’m on Tet vacation. This is a good thing, I suppose, although I’m bad at vacations. Bad at holidays in general. I tend to look at them as opportunities to get some work done. It’s a pretty crazy time in town, with Vietnamese people running red lights, driving on the sidewalk, cutting in front of people when on line at the supermarket or anywhere else, and buying everything in sight that isn’t nailed down. There are lots of ill-mannered young people throwing those snap-pop-crackity little white things, that explode with a sound not unlike that of a .38 snub-nose revolver, at passing motorbikes. I’ve forgotten what they’re called in English, don’t know what they’re called in Vietnamese, and really dislike them. Whenever one goes off I feel like I’m being shot at and want to crash my motorbike to deck and slide on it in a spray of sparks under the nearest truck in bullet-dodging style. Very stressful. The whole thing combined makes me want to offer a course called, “You and Society: Basic Constraints and Principles of Civilized Living.”
The office party was a lot of fun. We ate at Van Tue, which is one of my favorite restaurants for big groups, and then we went to sing karaoke. I sang “Uoc gi” by My Tam, as usual. No one died, and no one left early, so I guess my voice is improving. I will miss my co-workers over the holiday very much.
Then … next Thursday, I will bombard them with work. Because I’ll have spent a week coming up with new things for them to do.
Here’s wishing everyone a happy Tet. Ai, Thu, Le, Hai, Hang, Trang, Thuy, Nga, Mai, An, Phuong, and Hong … get some rest. You’re going to need it.